Living Water

Sometimes you just get lucky.  When I started my first bonsai nursery, it was on a farm in central Virginia, tucked in the foothills on the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  I had an exposed location on a terraced hillside, an old strawberry field, I was told.  The hill faced west, overlooking a bottom land cornfield and a small, winding river.  At the base of the hillside was an old farm pond, probably first dammed in the early 19th century, when the farm house was built.  About 15 years before I moved there, the pond had been cleaned and widened.  The man who helped was a retired Major League pitcher, so, of course, the new pond was of the shape and approximate size of a baseball infield.  Its sides dropped straight down about three feet and sloped to a depth of six feet in the center.

The pond was fed by a spring originating beneath a huge old White Oak, said to be over 350 years old, and requiring three or four people to hug it all the way ’round.  The spring flowed through a concrete trough under an old outbuilding and into a marshy bog, sort of the batter’s box around home plate, where the spring flowed into the pond.  A standpipe over by second base kept the pond level in check.  Turtles, newts, frogs, bream and bass were the most obvious residents, but closer inspection would turn up various insect nymphs, worms, crayfish, and the minutiae under a lens was impressive.  The mud bottomed pond had matured and become a self-sustaining aquatic ecosystem.

Since the spring supplied the farm house with water at low volume through an aging system, the farm pond was the obvious choice to draw the nursery’s water from.  An ancient piston-pump, rusting in a barn, was resurrected, re-belted, re-sealed and re-brushed to bring the water to the nursery on the hill.  Due to the pump’s preference to run steadily, rather than cut on and off at the whim of a hose, I put in a storage tank up on the hill as a reservoir to water from.  This also gave me a ready supply of water in case the electricity went off for a few days.

As my nursery grew larger, I put in a bigger reservoir; a round, twelve foot diameter, three foot deep swimming pool.  To offset its bright, metal and plastic presence, a board railing went around half of it, on which were perched my largest cascade bonsai, facing to the southeast.  The reflected glare of the water gave supplementary light to the underside of the cascading branches and helped to keep them from losing too much vitality, as cascades will do if treated too much like the other bonsai on the bench.  Several water lilies and lotus were grown in buckets in the pool and a school of koi was added.  I had a submersible pump with a pressure tank pulling water from the pool to water the bonsai with.  When the water dropped in the pool, it was replaced by water pumped up the hill from the pond.

Being originally from the suburbs, my bonsai had always been watered with “city water” from a tap.  I thought the bonsai would like this new, natural water supply, but I was ultimately astounded by their response.  Over the course of the first season on the farm, the trees gained a rich, vibrant color and grew more vigorously than before.  Insect pests became scarce.  Detrimental fungus was nowhere to be found, but beneficial fungus, the mycorhizzae on pine and hornbeam roots, thrived.  Trees became solidly anchored in their pots and a peek at their roots revealed growth all through the soil, not just in small zones like the edge of the soil next to the pot.  When I repotted trees the next spring, clumps of “dead soil” were rare.

At first, I happily accepted the wonderful growth and glowing health of the trees and really didn’t care what caused it.  After all, I had just moved a couple of states South and was out in the clean-air country with the Mountain Sun beaming on my bonsai.  I sure felt better being away from the cities’ congestion and pollution, so why shouldn’t my plants?  By the time my second season on the farm rolled around, I’d begun to suspect more than clear, clean air and a milder climate was at work, especially because the locally grown plants I’d started acquiring also perked up noticeably after a couple of weeks in the nursery.

About that time, I started noticing ads for  an apparently magical form of algae (at least it seemed to be to its pitch men) that would cure all your ills and might even make you become rich and famous.  I thought about the occasional blobs of slimy algae I had to pull off the pump’s intake.  I realized then that the farm pond’s water was “alive” with numerous plant and animal life forms.  Food was readily available to these organisms in the form of fish, animal and plant wastes and, of course, each other.  The pond’s ecosystem had been established long enough to mature and become balanced.  Animal and plant life had reached a maintainable balance and preyed upon and sustained each other within the confines of the farm pond.  This ecological balance passed through the pump, ascended the hill, and entered the holding tank, where it was maintained by the water lilies and the school of koi that lived there, along with the various other life forms that traveled up the pipe from the pond.  Whenever I examined the water with a hand lens or microscope, there was always quite a little show in progress; flat-worms, amoebas, algaes, daphnia and all sorts of tiny life-forms danced through the fluid that sustained them.

This ecological balance was then passed on to my bonsai when they were watered.  Dissolved fish wastes and all the small plant and animal life suspended in the water entered the confines of the bonsai pot and were absorbed by the trees as they were broken down in the soil to chemical components.  The bacteria, fungi, and other soil microbes thrived on their diet of pond water and became established, balanced colonies in each bonsai container.  Thus, the entire nursery came into a balance; pot by pot, bench by bench, growing area by growing area.  As long as there was no influx of new material too large for the system to handle, this balance was maintained, almost automatically.

Metaphysically, I visualized this balance contained in the farm pond’s living water as a luminescent, swirling, blob of energy that was pulled out of the pond to journey up the hill to the pool, where it joined with more energy and then passed into the bonsai.  This gave each bonsai an aura of good health and stability, and the whole nursery took on a subtle, interconnected glow.  An harmonious balance, an ecological stability had been achieved.

Depending on the size of your collection and aesthetic tastes, there are many ways to create a reservoir, or holding tank, ranging from a washtub to a lake in size.  Some factors to consider are:  the tank must be of a non-toxic material; its better to be visually pleasing, although not functionally necessary; there must be enough capacity to buffer the effects of constantly removing and replenishing the water; and permanency, will you take it along when you move, or are you in a place where you’ll stay.

Garden ponds have become very popular over the last decade and there are many books and articles on their construction, as well as many commercial installers.  If you own your home, its probably your best choice.  Since the water is surrounded by soil, its temperature is buffered from rapid changes, and it can become a major aesthetic asset to your overall bonsai garden design.  Bigger is better, especially if you’ll be filling it with treated “city water”.  It will be tough to impossible to create a balance in your pond if you use most of its water every day.  Ideally, build one which has the capacity to hold at least a week’s worth of water, according to the summer demands of your collection, and remember to allow for any expansion of your garden.  Measure the amount of water your collection needs by filling a five gallon bucket, transfer that to a watering can and add up the number of buckets it takes to thoroughly water everything and multiply by five (for number of gallons), then by fourteen (two waterings a day for seven days) to get a minimum gallon capacity for your pond.  For example, if it takes ten buckets to water your trees, that’s fifty gallons.  50×14= 700 gallons, which is not all that big of a pond.  The smaller the percentage of pond water you exchange daily, the easier it will be to create and maintain “living water”.  Any commercial pond installer (and many water gardening books) should be able to give you a mathematical formula to compute pond volumes so you can determine the minimum length, width and depth your pond should be.  Remember that the deeper your pond is, the more stable it’ll be.  Find a suitable, full-Sun spot and install it.

If your ideal water capacity isn’t practical for some reason, you can get away with a smaller volume, although it’ll take more understanding of the pond’s dynamics on your part.  In general, treated water will require more volume than well water, as well as a longer “settling period” to become acceptable to aquatic life.  Check with a local pond installer to find out what works for  “un-treating” your local water supply.  Moving water (i.e. a waterfall or fountain) will oxygenate the water and give your pond a larger surface area to help exchange gasses between water and air, which often allows you to get by with a smaller pond volume.  Read a few books on water gardening, find a knowledgeable local pond installer and let him know what you’re trying to do, and the different function of your pond, and listen to his suggestions.  Some things to keep in mind are: you want a pond which will balance and support plant and animal life; you will be drawing x-amount of water daily (in the growing season) to water your bonsai and replacing this water; and you will need to install additional plumbing (pump, pressure tank, and fittings) to water your plants with.  Also, by regularly removing and adding water you will be “cleaning” your pond more regularly than most, so you will need a major pond cleaning less often.  Depending on the size of your collection and the amount of water you need to pump at a watering, your submersible pump may be able to power your waterfall or fountain when you’re not watering.  A good pond person will be happy to thoughtfully consider your special needs and enjoy the challenge of meeting them.  The best pond people will thoroughly understand natural pond balance and use chemicals only in desperation.  Avoid the guy who immediately tries to sell you the in-stock “Special-of-the-Week” gadgetry, or tells you to nuke your pond regularly with this chemical or that “as a preventative measure”.  The best “preventative measure” is a healthy, balanced pond.

If an in-ground pond isn’t practical, consider other containers.  My “pond” was a kids’ swimming pool, 12′ diameter x 3′ depth, which held over 2000 gallons and watered a couple of thousand pre- and trained bonsai.  Smaller pools are available, and cattle watering troughs are available through feed stores in farming communities.  You can also build or scrounge many other types of water containers to suit your specific needs.  The traditional Japanese bonsai nurseries have various water basins scattered about to hold water, which is dipped out with watering cans.  By storing water in these containers, the water temperature is matched to the ambient air temperature to prevent thermal  shock, and the water is also “aged”.  These basins can be purchased and may have enough capacity to support a small collection of bonsai.  A few water plants and goldfish can survive in these basins if the summer water temperature does not get too high and will add an authentic touch to your garden.

Once your water reservoir is installed, be it small basin or large pond, it needs to be planted and stocked, and then balanced.  There are general rules in the pond business for how much fish flesh per gallon a pond will support, how much surface area should be shaded (usually with water lilies and/or lotus) to keep algae from running amok, how many oxygenating plants per sq. ft. of bottom area should be used, and so on.  Keep in mind that your pond will be different because of the relatively large volume of new water that will be running through it.  You can keep a larger amount  of fish, and algae will be less of a problem because of the water flow.  Dissolved wastes and organic matter which poison fish and feed algae will be diverted to your bonsai to be happily consumed.  Consult your pond guru for suggestions on which plants and how many and what size fish to add.  Balancing the pond will take time to achieve, possibly a whole season, but it is worth the effort.

Do not neglect the tiny life forms, either.  You can “inoculate” your pond with insect nymphs and various protozoans by gathering a bucket of bottom muck and water from a natural lake or pond.  Choose a natural body of water that is clear and relatively free of pollution.  Gather a small amount of decomposing leaf litter from a shallow cove with plant growth that extends right to the water’s edge, along with some water.  Hopefully you will have captured some damsel and/or dragon fly nymphs, mayfly larvae, flat-worms, daphnia (water fleas), fresh-water shrimp, amoeba, etc.  Add the water and muck to your pond.  Do this a couple of times a year, especially in the Spring.  You will eventually have a rich profusion of beneficial tiny animal life which will help keep your fish healthy and the adult insect forms, such as damsel flies, to enjoy as they buzz around your pond and  nursery.  Dragon and damsel flies, adults and larvae, also prey on mosquitoes and house flies.  Other aquatic insects mature and become airborne pollinators for your bonsai and garden plants.  And, don’t forget, every pond needs a frog, or three, so catch a few of those guys, too.  One of the interesting  things about balance is how many tiny, grasping things, insignificant by themselves, can  join together to keep a large object from toppling.

As your pond matures, so will your dealings with it.  You will learn what it takes to keep it healthy and what role each component plays; how the fish depend on the plants for oxygen and food, how the plants utilize the fishes’ wastes; carbon dioxide for respiration, solid wastes for fertilizer; how the insects feed on plant and animal detritus and become fish food themselves, and so on.  The insects will hatch from the pond and pollinate your bonsai and buzz and beautify the garden.  The frogs will croak at dusk in a pleasing, natural chorus.  Birds will be attracted to the pond and garden.  You will have your own little ecosystem to nurture and enjoy.  You will also learn what throws the system out of balance: pulling out and then adding too large a percentage of new water, especially treated water; using broad-spectrum chemicals that kill indiscriminately (beneficial organisms as well as destructive ones); using fertilizer meant for land plants on your waterlilies (it releases all at once and kills your fish); in short, don’t put more of anything into the pond than its natural buffering capabilities can handle.  Keep your pond balanced and it will be a very large factor in keeping your bonsai healthy.  The trees will thrive on its vitality.

The pond can add significantly to the overall beautification of your bonsai collection and garden, also.  Properly placed, it will be a focal point that draws immediate attention from your guests.  Use the soil excavated from the pond site, along with some rocks to create a hill next to the pond.  Plants used on the hill and around the pond can be pre-bonsai specimens doing their trunk-thickening time, as well as accent plants waiting their turn in a display pot.  Stock plants that supply cuttings and grafting scions may also fit in well here.  Of course, the pond itself will be beautiful, if kept balanced, and its occupants and the other life it attracts will interest you and your guests with its infinitely variable scenes.

One of the nicest bonsai displays I ever set up was in a pond in the courtyard of a posh restaurant.  I put several ceramic flue tiles in the pond so that they stuck up less than an inch from the water, then set a large piece of slate on each one.  On top of each slate an impressive bonsai was placed, mostly pines.  At night, with subtle, colored lighting in and around the pond, it appeared as though the bonsai and slate were floating on the pond.  Bonsai can also be placed on flat rocks on the hill or around the pond, or on stumps, timbers or monkey poles next to the pond.

If you’ve opted for an above ground pool, you can shield its sides with wooden construction and place a shelf or rail around its perimeter.  This shelf makes an ideal spot to keep cascade bonsai.  Place them so their hanging branch or trunk extends over the water, facing South, picking up extra sunlight and humidity.  Many upward growing species resent having their limbs bent downward and weaken accordingly.  By giving these branches the extra light and humidity from the water you may prevent  them from weakening and dying back.

The benefits brought to a collection of bonsai by “living water” are staggering.  I don’t know of any other factor, besides proper siting, that will impact your trees in a more positive way.  By creating a reservoir to draw your daily water from and stocking it with plant and animal life you can improve your trees every time you water them, and add a beautifying element to your garden as well.  Do it.

© Mike Kling, 1999

Home Decor

Showing appreciation for Art can go further than just hanging pictures on your walls. Now you can spread Art throughout your home by printing my original images on useful things. Each item is individually printed on demand and shipped to you. You won’t see these in stores or all over the internet, you will have a unique item to use and enjoy.

 

And remember, you can customize any of these images and products. Many have overall size options, some have material options, most have sliders to adjust the image size on the product, and if the image size is smaller than the product size you will be able to pick a background color. So play around with an image and a product. Make the image larger or smaller, compare vertical vs horizontal images, change background colors. No obligation to buy and if you totally mess it up just close the tab and start over fresh. It’s all in fun. Enjoy…

 

 

 

 

 

Throw Pillows– Six sizes (14×14 to 26×26) and two shapes (square, rectangle).  100% polyester with concealed zipper, pillow insert optional. Image printed on both sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fleece Blankets– Two sizes, 50×60″ and 60×80″; two styles, sherpa (plush on bottom, shorter fleece on art side for sharper image) and plush (plush fleece on both sides), 100% polyester.

 

 

Duvet Cover– Available in Twin, Full, Queen, and King sizes. Hand sewn microfiber, with hidden zipper. Inserts available elsewhere.

 

 

 

 

 

Shower Curtain– 71″ wide, 74″ tall, 100% polyester with twelve holes across the top.

 

 

 

Bath Towels– Three sizes; hand towel, bath towel, and bath sheet. Image side is brushed microfiber, back is white, 100% cotton.

 

 

About the Prints

Lifestyle

Stationary

Phone Cases

Beach

Coffee Mugs

Face Masks

Apparel

 

 

 

 

About the Prints…

I have partnered with Fine Art America and Pixels to expand the function and availability of my drawings and paintings. They are a world-wide print on demand service with a good reputation. I have now had the chance to order some of their products and to communicate with family and friends who have also ordered. Everybody’s been happy with the quality that they received, and I am now pleased to be able to confidently offer my Art on a wide array of functional and decorative items.

Thanks for your support and appreciation of my Art.

Mike

 

Traditional prints of original artwork to hang on your wall. Each of the prints are scalable and available at different sizes and prices.

 

Framed Print, same frame and mat but different size prints.

30×40″ print, 37.7×47.5″ overall dimensions

6×8″ print, 13.5×15.5″ overall dimensions

 

Framed Prints– many options… Choose from as many as eight kinds of paper to print on; archival matte, glossy, luster, rag, velvet, watercolor, metallic, and more… There will be a range of sizes available, the print I’m looking at can be many sizes, from 8×6″ to 40×30″… More options are frames and mats, many colors and styles available if you want something ready to hang on arrival. Or, you can just get the Art Print shipped rolled up much cheaper and frame it yourself or have your local frame shop do it for you. Posters are similar and usually are rolled up and shipped in a tube.

Prints on Canvas– the print is made on canvas and wrapped over wood stretcher bars, just like what originals are painted on. You can have the sides black or white, or mirrored, which mirrors the parts of the prints close to the edges around the sides. They are usually hung without a frame for a modern, casual look, but framing is an option, if desired. Prints on canvas can look very much like an original painting.

 

Prints on Metal– “Bring your artwork to life with the stylish lines and added depth of a metal print. Your image gets printed directly onto a sheet of 1/16″ thick aluminum. The aluminum sheet is offset from the wall by a 3/4″ thick wooden frame which is attached to the back. The high gloss of the aluminum sheet complements the rich colors of any image to produce stunning results.”  I recommend metal as a very good way to print my paintings that were done on a hardboard or birchwood panel. The very fine texture of the panel allows fine detail which might get lost in the texture of canvas. Metal is great for photos, too, and seems to shine through the print a bit.

 

Prints on Clear Acrylic– “Your image gets printed directly onto the back of a 1/4″ thick sheet of clear acrylic. The high gloss of the acrylic sheet complements the rich colors of any image to produce stunning results. Two different mounting options are available.” Prints on acrylic show the fine details like metal prints do.

 

Prints on Wood– “Your image gets printed directly onto a sheet of 3/4″ thick maple wood. There are D-clips on the back of the print for mounting it to your wall using mounting hooks and nails (included).” Similar attributes, but priced lower than acrylic or metal.

 

 

 

Horizontal Tapestry.

Sizes:

50×61″

68×80″

88×104″

 

 

Vertical Tapestry.

Sizes:

61×50″

80×61″

104×88″

 

 

Prints on Tapestries– These can fill up some wall space relatively cheaply. Nice microfiber fabric that prints well, many background colors optional. Many uses.

There’s lots more, here’s where it gets fun…

Home Decor

Lifestyle

Stationary

Phone Cases

Beach

Coffee Mugs

Face Masks

Apparel

Process Pics-Shellfish

As I learn “painting”, I am intrigued by how this simple concept of representing something on a surface of some sort becomes so complex and spreads out from all sides to show that it really has no borders unless someone tries to impose them. This began as the second painting I did in a series of private lessons designed to teach me the craft of painting.

 

This is the shell of a Shark Eye Moon Snail, a mollusc that lives offshore of much of the US east coast, where I have found their washed up remains many times since early childhood. They are a favorite of mine. Here, it is set up on a white surface with a single point light source to give it simple light and shadow, for basic drawing or painting.

 

First step was to paint the 8×10″ canvas board a neutral grey color. Then the sketch began, lightest areas represented by white, and darkest by the neutral grey.

 

Finished sketch, expressing the values seen in the shell and it’s shadow, called a tonal underpainting.

 

A simple palette is used, all colors will be mixed from red, yellow, and blue paint. Shades will be lightened with white, darkened with neutral grey.

 

Even though there’s not a speck of red, blue, or yellow visible on the shell, the mixtures of these colors represent the shell very well.

 

This is the completed lesson painting. Although there are flaws, I’m happy with it as a fledgling endeavor.

But, wait a minute… the realist in me knows I will put this in a pile, or box, or drawer and may never look at it again. So, let’s take this further. It’s a couple months later and I have several paintings under my belt.

 

I have imagined a natural setting for the shell, where it’s just washing up on a Beach. My initial thought of waves in the background won’t work because of the lighting on the shell being from the wrong direction, so we’ll be wading a bit out in the Surf and looking shoreward when we come upon our Treasure.

 

Not happy with my initial effort, I painted it over. Painting purely from imagination is tough, and beyond my present state of development. A sketch of my idea is made. Drawing the shell is getting easier, since I’ve made several by now.

 

We have the Surfwash in the fore ground and a sloping wall of sand up the Beach and some sky in the background. But I’m not happy with how the bubbly foam looks, so I paint it out again for a fresh try.

 

Back to the Teacher for enlightenment, another lesson. Paint what you see. We set up a shallow tray with sand and water, place the shell and carefully adjust the lighting. “Do you see the reflection?”, he asks innocently (he knew it would be there). “Oh crap, now I have to paint a reflection, too?”, I moan, but with some trial and error, figure out how to do it. Painting wouldn’t be such fun if it was easy.

 

Back home, I have a decent reflection and some bits of foam.

 

And again, your imagination will betray you on the details, so I took some pics of the foam in the Surf for reference.

 

More detail in the foam and some light and color reflections on the water, I think it’s almost there.

 

I signed and varnished it and stood back to admire the finished painting. And that’s when I saw it… Maybe it’s because I’m a Fisherman, but I couldn’t deny it… From a certain angle, the reflection became the lower jaw of an open mouth, the shadow a darkened gullet, and the conical origin point of the shell was a fish eye. It couldn’t be unseen, it was there. I came to think of it as a Snail Eye Sand Guppy, a rare species that fed on Surf Foam, look, he’s gulping some now!

 

So, I learned you could still paint over the varnish and filled in a sand-sculptured tail, with a red bucket and shovel to further the illusion. Now, it’s really done and I put a modest frame around it. Thus, the Title of the painting became, “Shellfish”.

 

Back to the Shellfish page